The BBT Drive is designed to improve the Bachmann Big Hauler and it's abilities to pull a large number of cars, easily, realistically, and trouble-free. The design has been developed to make the installation as simple as possible. There are areas which will require your diligence and patience, so take your time. It will be helpful to you to read all of these instructions before beginning the modifications to your Big Hauler.

This instruction set is made up of several sections which will guide you in the sequence of the conversion. As previously mentioned on the order form, once you begin there is no going back. Therefore, these instructions will be as complete as possible to help you make a successful conversion. If you run into trouble, please call us. TABLE OF CONTENTS Page: I. Introduction
A. The Drive Unit...............................2
B. Testing the Drive Unit.......................2
II. The Bottom Plate
A. Description..................................3
B. Modifications................................3
C. Templates...........................Appendix B
III. The Chassis
A. Description..................................4
B. Disassembly..................................4
C. Modifications................................4
IV. Fitting the Drive Unit
A. Attaching the Drive Unit.....................5
B. Electrical Connections.......................6
C. Reassembly of the Locomotive.................6
D. Testing the Assembled Drive Unit.............7
V. Lubrication
A. Worm gears...................................8
B. Bearings and Bushings........................8
C. Siderods.....................................8
D. Electrical Pickups...........................8
VI. Miscellaneous
APPENDICES:
A. Bottom Plate
B. Bottom Plate Templates
C. Chassis Side View
D. Chassis Top View
E. Chassis Bottom View
F. Brake Shoes
G. Locomotive Weight
H. Bill of Materials
J. Straight Running Boards
* Bachmann and Big Hauler are registered trademarks of
Bachmann Industries, Inc. Rev. 06/96

PAGE 2

I. INTRODUCTION

For the purposes of this conversion and clarity of the instructions we need to define and identify the components with which we will be working. The upper portions of the locomotive are the cab, boiler, and smokebox. This we will call the Upper Part or Superstructure of the locomotive. The next lower section attaches to the Upper Part of the locomotive with seven screws and the front side braces to the smokebox. This we will call the Chassis. At the very bottom and attached to the Chassis is the Bottom Plate with the cow- catcher, pilot truck, and rear hook.

A. THE DRIVE UNIT

The drive unit is delivered to you ready-to-run, the wheels have been fitted to the drive axles and the drive has it's own electrical pickup on each flanged wheel. The motor and pickups are wired to drive the unit. The unit has been tested at our facility for satisfactory running.

B. TESTING THE DRIVE UNIT

You should test your unit before proceeding. First, simply place the unit on your track and supply power to check it's running capability. We have done this test.

If you encounter any binding in any of the tests, call us for assistance in correcting the binding. We will not ship any unit which has a binding problem, therefore some change must have occurred in shipment.

This may mean that somehow the wheel quartering may have changed: i.e. one of the bushings could have rotated in the wheel hub and is out of `synch' with the other wheels.

All of us prefer to have our locomotives respond to direction changes in the same power pack setting. If the drive unit does not move forward in the same setting as your other locomotives, now is the time to swap the black/red and white wire connections to the motor. Then retest.

The unit's stainless steel worm and driven nylon worm gear have been generously lubricated at our facility. In the future, this function is in your hands - DO NOT RUN THESE COMPONENTS DRY! The siderod bearings require a small amount (a thin film) of light oil or grease (See Section V, for more details).

PAGE 3

II. THE BOTTOM PLATE

The unit you have received is to be fitted into the Bottom Plate and the Chassis must be opened up to accept the larger motor of the new drive unit (Section III). To ease the modifications, detach the Cab/boiler superstructure by unscrewing seven screws and freeing the pilot braces from the smokebox. Remove the weight from the chassis.

The first modification is to the Bottom Plate, see Appendix A & B. The first step is to free the Bottom Plate from the Chassis. The screws holding the Bottom Plate to the Chassis should be removed. There are two wires from the pilot truck which need to be cut at the motor posts. These wires are usually brown and black. The reason for cutting them at the motor posts is to give you the maximum amount of wire for later wiring. Do not cut the two pink wires at this time. If all of the wires are cut from the motor posts -no problem. Free the brown and black wires so they can be pulled out of the Chassis (usually there is some yellowish hard cement securing some of the wires to the insides of the Chassis, use a hobby knife to detach this cement). Set the rest of the loco aside and place the bottom plate on your workbench.

Compare your bottom plate to the picture in Appendix A. The first cut will be to the section carrying the hook to the tender (we'll call this the "Hook Section"). The exploded view shows where the cut is to be made. Scribe where the cuts will be made. Cut each of the sides, before cutting across the bottom. After cutting, sand the cuts smooth by placing a piece of fine sand paper on a level surface and sanding the face of the hook section on the sand paper until it is smooth. This piece will be screwed in place to the rear of the unit, so the smoother the better. Once smooth, the hole is drilled to accept the screw to the rear bulkhead. Cut out and place Template A on the rear hook face, tape in place (the hook point is down) drill a 1/8" hole through the template and the face of the hook unit. The rear hook profile must be changeD to accommodate the lower overall chassis position. Per the drawing, square the rear hook as indicated.

The second cut (the "Pilot Section") is similar to the first, and cut in the same manner, see the exploded view in Appendix A. Scribe where the cuts will be made. First cut the sides, then cut the bottom from one side cut to the other side cut as straight as possible. The notches are cut into the sides of the section as shown. Place Template B on the top of the Pilot Unit and drill the 1/8" holes, as indicated.

Remove the 4-40 screw from the rear endplate and the two 4-40 screws from the front bridge of the BBT DRIVE 280 unit. Insert one of the screws into the rear Hook Section from the recess side and through the new hole. Insert this screw into the rear bulkhead of the drive unit. Tighten the screw, squaring the Hook Unit with the drive unit (If you cannot square the unit properly, elongate the hole in the plastic). This will be the most difficult screw to tighten in this whole operation, because of the angle involved. PAGE 4

Insert the other two screws into the new holes in the pilot unit and attach to the front of the drive unit, keeping the pilot unit square with the drive unit frame.

III. THE CHASSIS

The Chassis has to be modified to accept the New Bottom Plate that you have just set aside. Remove the weight attached to the top of the Chassis. The interior of the Chassis must be cleared out to permit the space needed for the new motor. First, remove the old motor by removing any motor mounts that are screwed into the Chassis. The electrical pickups currently mounted in your locomotive are one of two types: either brass wipers or small brass plungers. In either case, they must be removed. The brass wipers will come out with the old motor. There is usually some hard yellowish adhesive used to hold the wipers to the side of the Chassis, also there may be a couple of cast-in wedges to hold the wipers in place. Detach the hard cement with a hobby knife. Remove the old motor and wipers. If your loco has plunger-type pickups, these can be removed with a very small Phillips screwdriver.

Please notice the wires (usually pink) from the two spring followers, desolder these wires, they are to the sound system's trigger or switch. This trigger can also be used with many after-market sound units, so it is worth saving. Next remove the gears by punching the pins from the side of the Chassis, once they are protruding from the opposite side pull them through with a pair of pliers. There are usually two or three shafts each with a cluster gear internally. Once these items have been removed your Chassis will resemble the drawings in Appendices D or E. Inside the Chassis, there are two or three gear shaft mounts, which need to be removed. It is difficult to show this in the drawings.

The Chassis profile is shown in Appendix C. The drawings are provided in two forms; first in the form you find them. These views have cut lines drawn on them. The second view, is how the part will look after the cuts have been made. Remember to sand or file each of the cut surfaces. The cuts can be done in the same manner that we cut styrene; i.e., score the surface deeply with a razor saw or hobby knife and bend the plastic away from the cut until it breaks, then sand or file.

The first modification to be made is to provide room in the sides of the Chassis for the new axles and electrical pickups.

The Chassis sides have rails above the shaped indentations, axle slots, and raised sections. The cut is made just above the rails. The cut proceeds to the rear of the loco to the plate that carries the raised brake cylinder. Then cut straight down leaving the brake cylinders intact. Then trim the plastic below the block upon which the brake cylinder is mounted. This will provide all the room needed for the new axles and wheel pickup contacts.

PAGE 5

The motor in the BBT Drive is a tight fit in the Chassis, so much so, that it can force the existing sides out far enough to touch the backs of the rear and center drivers. Therefore the next steps are to provide enough clearence for the motor without totally destroying the Chassis. The rivet details and cast-in piping that are blackened in Appendix C should be shaved off and the same for the spring relief behind the second driver.

Appendix D illustrates the Chassis' top view. The cut lines are shown in the upper view and the resulting relief to the Chassis is shown in the lower illustration.

Appendix E illustrates the Chassis' bottom view. Again the cut lines are shown in the upper view and the results of the cuts are shown in the lower illustration.

The sound switch (spring followers) cannot remain in its original position. Cut the base of the followers with a razor saw even with the sides of the chassis. Set the base aside, cut out the remains of the spring follower mount as indicated in Appendices D & E.

Cement the follower mount, centered and facing rearward, Appendix B, onto the front section of the chassis. Cut the forward screw post flat, enlarge the hole to 1/8". Route the sound switch wires up above the chassis, in front of the former sound switch mount and down through the hole you just opened to each of the spring followers. Resolder the wires to each spring follower (the wires are too short, you'll have to splice in a short section of wire to reach).

In the front section of the chassis 3/4" from the front of the chassis, drill a 3/16" hole, as shown in Appendix D & E.

The brake shoes provided are a nice detail and can be retained or left off. But this will be the last item done, completing the conversion. In this application only the rear, forward facing brake shoes can be retained. If you wish to retain the brake shoes see Appendix F. The section just cut away from the Chassis also carried the brake shoes. By cutting a small section away, each brake shoe will have a square base to be glued to the aluminum frame (see Appendix F). The brake shoe assemblies are removed from the Chassis, the protrusions on the backs of the base cut and sanded flat, then cemented (use CA or Superglue), to the new aluminum frame just in front of the brake cylinders, but facing forward to the rear of the last driver.

IV. FITTING THE DRIVE UNIT

A. Attaching the Drive Unit to the Chassis

Remove the 4-40 nut and washer from the bridge 4-40 post. The rear of the Chassis should be trial fitted to the new drive unit's frame. By tipping the Chassis at an oblique angle where the rear of the Chassis and the rear of the drive unit touch; fit the two together. Once the rear sections are

PAGE 6

engaged, swing the front of the Chassis down over the drive unit, make sure that the wires are not in the way, by pulling them up through the Chassis. As everything clears out of the way press the Chassis onto the drive unit. Once in place, put the washer over the protruding 4-40 bolt and secure with the 4-40 nut. Add a drop of superglue to the nut. The screw in the rear hook section can be inserted and fastened.

Note: in some cases there is no hole in the rear hook section, but there is a boss in the Chassis which will accept a screw, you will have to drill the 1/8" hole if it is missing. With these two screws in place it is time for the electrical hookup through the Chassis.

B. Electrical Connections

The drive units' pig tail wires (not stripped) and the Superstructure's light and smoke unit wires (Usually red and white) must be attached. The smoke unit/light wires are not current dependent, therefore can be attached to either pigtail (it's nice to match colors; i.e., white to white, then red to black). Two pieces of shrink tubing are provided for the pigtails to insulate your soldered connections. Slip the shrink tubing over the pigtails prior to connecting the wires. After the soldering is complete, slide the shrink tubing over the joint, apply heat from a lighter or match to shrink the tubing to a snug fit.

C. Reassembly of the Locomotive

The steam chest, cylinders, and drive rod assembly should be put in place on the pilot bridge section. The steam chest will be loose until the boiler is lowered into place. The drive rods should be attached to the center drivers' drive pin. If your unit has full working valve gear, the eccentric which attaches to the main rod drive pin must be opened up to fit the round end of the drive pin. With a 3/16" drill clear out the hex-shaped interior of the eccentric arm, DO NOT DRILL ALL OF THE WAY THROUGH! Fit to the main rod pin. Aim the eccentric to the center or slightly off-center of the wheel. The Hex-head 4-40 screw should have either loctite or an adhesive applied to the threads, then inserted and tightened down sufficiently to hold the eccentric in place.

The full-working valve gear has a U-shaped bracket which has a tab on the front portion which has a small screw which attaches to the chassis. The tab must be cut off and rotated 90 degrees rearward and superglued in place. When dry, line up in the correct position (which is determined when the rear part of the bracket is screwed in place), drill a 1/16" hole for the small screw. Insert and tighten the small screw.

The stock Chassis normally carries a 3/4 to 1 3/4 pound cast- iron weight which should be reattached or augmented with a weight of about two to five pounds (Minimum weight goal is four pounds plus). Once this is done check the wire placement, tuck everything inside, make sure no wires are going to rest in an area which could cause any problems; i.e., near the drive gears, sound switch, etc. Place the PAGE 7

drive unit up-side-down onto the superstructure, starting with the rear of the drive unit, fitting the sound unit on/off switch through the superstructure end plate, checking that no wires are protruding. It may take a little jockeying around but finally lower everything into place. Check that all of the screw holes line up (use a stiff piece of wire, or 1/16 rod). Insert the two screws into the bottom of the Cab. Square up the steam chest aligning on the boss protruding from the bottom of the smoke box. Insert one of the side tanks in the slot in the side of the boiler. Line up the rear screw hole using a stiff piece of wire through the chassis, then the side tank, and finally into the boss in the boiler. Start the screw into the front hole, but do not tighten. Fit the steam line into the small `fork' on the tank, (if a Plus-type loco these lines will plug into the sides of the boiler). Remove the wire from the rear hole, insert the screw, tighten both screws. Repeat for the other side. Place the long screw into the center of the steam chest, tighten. Turn the locomotive over.

The smoke box braces will not fit into the holes in the sides of the smoke box due to the lower height of the boiler in relation to the chassis. Remove the braces from the pilot beam and with a pliers and a small hammer straighten the 90 degree bend from the brace, trial fit the brace back into the pilot beam to see where the new bend should be (masking tape can be wrapped on the brace to allow a clear mark). Make a sharp bend in the brace, in the proper direction. If this does not fit correctly, restraighten and try again.

D. Testing the Assembled Drive Unit

Place the locomotive on a section of powered track. Run the locomotive slowly, a little quicker, then at all speeds.

If there are any problems which you cannot identify, call us.

PAGE 8

V. LUBRICATION

The Drive Unit is not a toy, but a small machine. Like your car it must be lubricated. In the package, you received, there is a tube of Permatex Super Lube, this grease is a very high-performance grease, non-petroleum, which means it will not attack plastic or many other materials. The grease is non-conductive, so it can prevent any current flow (i.e., front pilot wheel hub contact/bearings pickup). If your kit does not have a tube of lubricant, your dealer will have an equivalent to purchase.

A. Worm Gears

The drive unit's worm gear set was lubricated before it was shipped. However, you should notice a polypropelene plug in the bottom of the drive unit. This plug provides access for you to check on the state of lubrication and add lubrication, when necessary, without having to tear down the locomotive. The worm gear lubrication does not have to be in a large `glob' to be working, just be sure the gear is not dry.

B. Bearings and Bushings

The ballbearings are shielded, not sealed. The shield however, is close enough in tolerance to prevent water from entering the bearing (unless submerged for a long period of time or under pressure). The middle drivers have a bronze bushing which should be oiled periodically, behind each wheel.

C. Side Rods

The side rod pins and slide mechanism should be lightly oiled or greased periodically.

D. Electrical Pickups

The electrical pickups are self-lubricating and will not need any additional lubrication. If there is any dirt accumulation or greasy build-up on the back of the wheels it can be wiped away with a cloth, perhaps using a solvent like a track cleaner or WD-40.

E. Pilot Truck

The pilot truck provides electrical pickup with plungers of the same type used in the chassis. The suggestions for the pickups apply as indicated above. The axle is mounted through bronze bushings which will require a small amount of oil periodically.

PAGE 9

VI. MISCELLANEOUS

A. Gear Mesh

30:1 Gear Ratio, 32 pitch - fixed motor mount

The mesh is determined dimensionally and fine adjusted by the insertion of spacers (thin washers), when necessary, under the motor mount bracket and the bottom of the frame.

B. Logos

Two dry transfer logos are included for your use, one white and one gold, if you choose to use them. I identify my demo locos by affixing the logo to the rear of the tender.

C. WARRANTY - Spares and Replacement Parts

Currently, the unit is warranted to some, as yet undetermined limited capacity. The only situation which I feel we should not cover is one which may involve inappropriate abuse.

The wear items on the unit are the pickup plungers and perhaps, the springs. The nylon worm gear has an unpredictable wear factor. The nylon gear will fail if the mesh is incorrect or there is sideplay on the driven axle. Until we are more familiar, we will be covering these gears as a warranty item.

A list of items which may be necessary for an owner to order will be created; i.e., like the plungers and springs.

At some point we may offer raw components, such as the frame's custom extrusion, for scratch builders. This will become part of the spares list. As more models are created there will be more items made available.

APPENDIX G

LOCOMOTIVE WEIGHT

The BBT DRIVE 280 requires the addition of a weight of about three to five pounds to provide adequate traction for the new power. I had intended to provide these weights as an extra- cost item, but the availability and price of lead and the cost of shipping have ruled this out. Therefore, please consider the following drawings to cast your own weight. The mold is made up of 2 x 2 boards on a plywood or particle board base. The actual dimensions of a 2 x 2 are 1 5/8" thick by 1 5/8" wide. Filled with lead this size will yield a weight of four or four and a quarter pounds (2 kilos). You can produce more than one weight from this mold. Screw the boards down and un-screw them when the lead has cooled, pound out the 3/8" dowels for the posts. In multiple casts, use new posts for each application (although I have been able to reuse these post for a few weights). The wood should be fairly dry, and there will be a bit of smoke, but the end product is just fine (keep some water handy, sprinkle it on if a flame develops).

NOTE: Some owners of the BBT DRIVE 460 are running weights up to SIX pounds. No known complaints, yet. More weight seems to provide more traction. We don't know the limit. Just as in prototypical applications the pulling capability decreases rapidly as the percent of incline increases. Your old cast-iron weight can be attached to the top of this weight, if it doesn't interfere with the boiler top.

APPENDIX H

BILL OF MATERIALS - BBT DRIVE 280

QTY DESCRIPTION

1 PITTMAN 19.1 VOLT 7-POLE MOTOR #8524G453
1 BASE CUSTOM ALUMINUM EXTRUSION - BLACK ANODIZED
1 PILOT BRIDGE CUSTOM ALUMINUM EXTRUSION - BLACK ANAODIZED
2 ALUMINUM END PLATES - BLACK PAINTED
1 4-40 X 5/16" Stainless Flathead
1 MOTOR MOUNT BRACKET 32P
1 STAINLESS STEEL WORM 32P - SINGLE THREAD (30:1)
1 ACETAL & BRASS WORM GEAR 32P - 30 TOOTH
4 NMB BALL BEARINGS, SHIELDED, STAINLESS 5/16" x 3/16"
4 BRONZE BUSHINGS 5/16" X 3/16", FLANGED (30:1)
2 CONTACT SETS
2 3/16" X 1" Plastic Tube
4 3/16" X 1/2" Teflon tube bushings
4 Springs
4 Plungers
4 Brass Tubes
20" 26 Ga. Wire White
20" 26 Ga. Wire Black
4 CENTERLESS GROUND STAINLESS STEEL AXLES - MACHINED
8 1/16 STAINLESS STEEL ROLL PINS X 3/8
16 3MM STAINLESS WASHERS
14 4-40 X 1/4 STAINLESS HEX HEAD BOLT
2 4-40 X 5/8 STAINLESS HEX HEAD BOLT
3 4-40 X 3/8 STAINLESS PANHEAD BOLT
1 4-40 X 1 1/2" STAINLESS FLATHEAD BOLT
1 4-40 STAINLESS STEEL NUT
8 NYLON WHEEL BUSHING ADAPTERS
2 AMP CONNECTORS
1 PLASTIC LUBE HOLE PLUG
1 TWO WHEEL PILOT TRUCK
1 CUSTOM EXTRUDED ALUMINUM FRAME, SHAPED
1 BRASS TUBE SPACER 5/32" x 5/32" DIA.
2 BRONZE BUSHING 3/16" x 1/8" FLANGED
1 STAINLESS AXLE
2 PILOT WHEELS

APPENDIX J
STRAIGHT RUNNING BOARDS

Straight running boards change the appearence of the Bachmann locomotive significantly. In order to accomplish this change the running boards must be created, pieces cut to replace the running boards which carry the air tanks on the sides of the boiler and optionally, relocate the air tanks under the cab.

The running boards are cut out of plastic sheet .060 thick, 8 inches long and 1 inch wide. After two of the shapes are created, they need to be finished. To emulate the cab end of the stock running boards, simply place the old running boards on top of each of the new pieces, so that the cab ends of each are flush with each other. Tape or clamp them in place together. The new running boards will fit snugly next to the longitudinal ridge on the bottom of the old running boards. Spray paint the out line of the old running boards on to the new stock, you have just cut. Let the paint dry, then cut out the sprayed section in the new running boards. Trial-fit the new running boards. The left running board will need a hole cut where the bottom of the air pump protrudes down, a 3/16" hole will suffice.

Just behind the steam cylinders on each side we need to provide a forward support for the new running board. I have used a 1/8" rod successfully, but this may be substituted for whatever metal rod you have handy, but you'll need a corresponding properly sized brass U-channel to fit the metal rod that you use. Obviously, this part is open to many different variations, but this is one that I found most successful. Measure about 1" back on each running board from the most forward edge. Hold the running board level with the bottom of the boiler. With a scribe or pencil make a mark both vertically and horizontally where the rod will go through the side of the boiler (actually, a section just below the boiler). I have missed doing this correctly every time I've done it, usually I am too high and have to lower the hole and fill the old one. Once the rod is in place I cut a section of the U-channel 3/4" long, one for each side. Place the U-channel on the rod under the running board, when it looks correct place super glue on the channel and lower the running board onto the channel and clamp in place. Repeat for the other side. Cut a small piece 1/4" to 3/8" long plastic `L' and position on the bottom of the running board where the tab comes down, which supported the old running board, superglue in place. When dry, drill a 1/8" hole so a screw can be inserted into the old tab. Now the running board is supported in three places. When everything fits together as it should, remove and paint.

The air tanks can be fitted under the cab simply by reducing the base or old running board and positioning the air tank under the cab. Cut the old running board equal to the vertical in the bottom of the running board and narrowing the running board to be no wider than the air tank. Superglue into place.

APPENDIX J - 2 -

The pieces for the old slots in the boiler where the air tank running boards came from should be made from the same .060 stock as the running boards themselves. Using up to .125 stock on the 280 conversion may allow a better fit in the slot. By turning the boiler unside down, measure the opening, it will be longer than the old running board section which fit in the opening. The drawing below will be some help in creating these pieces. Glue them in place in the upper part of the opening (the boiler, not the chassis, the plastics are different). Smooth the outside edge to keep this piece as clean as possible. If you are fine-scaling, you may want to make these a little oversize and fill, file/sand them down before painting the boiler.

APPENDIX K STEAMCHEST SADDLE MODIFICATION

The 2-8-0 sits lower than the standard Bachmann 4-6-0 locomotive. This give the 2-8-0 a better, stronger appearance. One item which is not included in the instruction set is the accommodation required in the steam chest saddle. The height of the top of the saddle must be reduced to line up with the boiler's lower height.

The drawing describes where the cut must take place.

After scribing the 1/8" reduction on all four sides, this can be nibbled away with sidecutters and/or your hobby knife. When you are near the line it can be finished with a piece of sandpaper wrapped around a section of 2" PVC or something similar in diameter (to the diameter of the loco's smokebox).

Sand in a linear motion rather than circular, otherwise one side will be reduced faster than the other. Plus it is easier to control.

Note: Do not try to reduce the height from the bottom of the saddle since this will cause misalignment with the cylinders which should be directly in line with the wheel centers.